Before we start searching for "cricket" in the trunk, we need to make sure it's not caused by the stuff lying there. If this is not the case, the following options are possible:
1. The lock of the trunk is crypto. To fix the creak, we need to lubricate the silicone grease gum and the loop of the trunk.
2. The plastic cover of the rear windscreen wiper mechanism, in contact with the bodywork (metal and rear door glazing), is crypto.
To remove the creak, you need to roll the cover with two bolts at Torx 20, pull the cover up, release the clips, and remove it. The areas of contact between the lime and the body need to be oken by a layer of madelina, after which everything is to be collected in reverse order.
The third stop-lamp may also be the cause of the creaking, burning the wiring that has been flying off the clip in the inner side of the back door, or the seat belt stuck between the back and the back of the back sofa.
3. Scrip of the foam units located under the floor of the boot, when rubbing against the body. More often than not, this creak is heard in a smokeless way, as the body is bending a little bit. To get rid of the creak, the foam blocks need to be moved forward and applied to the soft-material body. Also a creak can make a plastic lid, a glu-closing niche with a jack. To eliminate the creak, you need to protrude the inner perimeter of a niche or other soft and similar material.
The creaking may also be caused by a skewy pad under the spare wheel. The spare wheel should be removed and the pad pad shall be tapered to the body by means of a bilateral tape and the replacement of the spare wheel is tightened.
The reason for the sound from under the boot (which may sound exactly from the boot) could be the friction of the shaft of the rear of the parking brake. We need to pull the rope aside and try to fix something.
Another reason is the low rear display of the silencer.
