In order to replace the cable, you need a tubular key for 10, a fatwas for 10, and a rozhkov by 12. Using the key at 10, turn the 2 nuts out of the expansion bar. Then you need to click the wire clip that attaches to the beachline (the clip is behind the bar and prevents it from moving).
After we released the tank, we take it and gently lift it, not unplug the hoses, and put it on the box with the fuses (the black one next to the tank). When this operation is carried out, it is necessary to keep track of the tide on the boat, where the clip is located, in order not to break the engine shield (in fact everything is simple and easy to remove).
Now you can freely stick your hand in the motor shield where the cable goes into the salon. We take the pipe key by 10 (it is possible and usual, but not to spin it) and turn 2 nut screws to the cable to the engine board (it is better not to turn off the key until the end of the key, so less the chance to drop the nut). Then, unscrew the adjustment nut on the clutch of the clutch, and lift it with the rubber cushion.
In case the cable does not rotate and do not roll a rubber cover, you need to keep the return part of the key back to 12. There's a stop-pump, it's cruised on the axis of rotation of the clutch pedal, and her ear tip enters the slot above the hook and stops (blocks from the spontaneous withdrawal) the pedal cable.
Install a new cable in reverse order. Along the old one, we put on the heels of the motor-shield, putting the tip in the cabin, putting it on the hook, returning the spring to the spot (ear to the slot). Then tighten the screws to the motor shield and insert the rubber fence into the bracket before the fork of the clutch. Tighter the rubber cushion and tighten the nut. Once again, we use the key at 12 to keep the tether and do not roll over. Now it's only left to regulate the pedal.
