In an inter-season (especially in the spring), a vehicle is most likely to be malfunctioning. This is due to changes in operating temperature conditions and, of course, only to sites affected by changes in ambient temperature in one way or another. This includes the air conditioning system, the suspension system and the rubber hose (which is often filled with gel) or pneumatic rubber cushions and, of course, the cooling system. The cooling of the engine is the most "capriciant" of all systems of the car, as its structure is imperfect, and nothing fundamentally new for dissipation of heat has not been invented yet. To date, the liquid system with forced recycling remains predominant. As in any closed-system fluid, there are traditional problems-the formation of air traffic and associated heat and local overheating, corrosion on the internal surfaces of elements etc.

In view of the sharp variation in the operating temperature of the traffic in spring in traffic jams, it is often possible to observe cars with "hot" engines. However, it would be wrong to think that breakdowns in this period happen more frequently. It is more likely that during the winter, the consequences are either not present or present, but not to the extent that the driver has given them serious importance.

What if the car suddenly bodied?

For the most part, the movement is strictly followed only by two instruments, the fuel level sensor and the temperature sensor. Because the engine overheating always signals a breakdown in the cooling system, noticing the unusual rise in temperature, the engine must be stopped immediately.


Naturally, in certain situations the temperature of the coolant may rise, for example, in the cork heat. This is a normal situation that the electric fan should handle, which is commanded by the second temperature sensor. If the cooling fan and details are good, the red zone does not reach the red zone. The temperature will rise and fall within the same limits. If the arrow of the coolant temperature indicator is in the red zone, the engine must be immediately switched off. The boiling point of antifreeze is 130 degrees Celsius, and if the arrow is in the red zone, it's not far away. Process of swimming

Process of swimming

If there is a malfunction in the cooling system and the driver does not look at the temperature indicator board, the antifreeze shall be over 130 degrees and boiling. The system is rapidly increasing and the radiator cap is, by the way, equipped with a valve that allows, in a direct sense, to remove the vapor from the inside of the system. As a result, a hot liquid begins to erupt into subspace. There it falls into an even more hot block of cylinders and other parts of the engine, which is why the frightening clubs of the steam, which are wafting from under the bonnet to all sides. This is at best, and in the worst-case scenario, the lid is "giving up," that is, first shudges and then burst, unable to withstand the pressure, one of the rubber tubes of the refrigeration system, which is a lot in the car. This is usually the case for one of two long and thick tubes that lead the coolant to the radiator.

Possible effects of cooling of the coolant

If the antifreeze boil up and out, it means that the system is smaller, and the engine will no longer be cooled. If you turn it on and continue, the liquid will be boiling again, and since it is much smaller, the temperature in the area of the combustion chamber and the main mobile parts will jump sharply. The metal from which the pistons are made will expand, and the engine will simply drive it down. Even if this does not happen, the cylinder block may crack and turn out to be unsuitable. In extreme cases, it will happen to the head of a cylinder block, or simply "lead", that is, simply to say, it will become a curve and will require repair and bulkhead. A pad between the block head and the unit is often broken or deformed, and this is the most likely consequence. In any case, the financial consequences of trying to reach the service on a car with a teque antifreeze will be grandiose, given how much a new engine costs to the modern car model. The damage to the unit, the pistons, or the head is to be avoided by all.

What can be done if the arrow is on or already in the red zone

If the driver noticed a standard temperature rise in time, you should try to reset the temperature rise in the available way. The easiest part is to activate the heater. It also has a radiator, and in this case it will play the role of an additional refrigerator cooling. If that did not work, the movement could not continue under any guise.

If the antifreeze is necessary, it needs to be finished, as there is always a chance that some random failure occurred and there will be no more heat after the tide. After the operation, it is necessary to comply strictly with the two rules: not to open the radiator right after the boiling and not to pour into the expansion tank fresh antifreeze without cooling the engine. In the first case, it is possible to get into the hospital, having boiled with a boiling antifreeze, in the second case it is possible to provoke the appearance of cracks in the block or head.


In the summer, the engine up to the bay of a new servo of antifreeze shall be cold for at least an hour, as the getting of cool antifreeze to the boiling water of ice water will be immediately after hot coffee. Metal, like the enamel of teeth, in this case will be destroyed due to the difference in temperature.

Only an experienced driver who can understand what conundrum occurred in the cooling system can keep antifreeze and try to continue. If it's not enough, it's better to call a tow truck.

Common cooling breakdowns and how to repair them

Most often, the thermostat is in the closed position. In this case, antifreeze is simply not part of the so-called "large circle of cooling", that is, it does not circulate inside the radiator. The thermostat is filled with a special substance which during operation loses its working properties, making the device inoperative. Unfortunately, you can't see it from the outside. Thermostat needs to be replaced to restore normal circulation.

The fan does not work when the thermostat is running. Without a fan, it's impossible to cool the motor in traffic, because there's no running rush of air in traffic. It is often not the fan itself, but the power connector pins or the wiring. This is detected in the electrical diagnostic process.

The temperature sensor has failed and does not give the fan a power on either at all or when it is too late and the temperature has already risen. It is also detected in the diagnostic process.

The recycling pump, which is also known as pomp. Inspection of operation and regulated replacement of pumps shall be carried out during routine maintenance. If the car is not serviced in the dealer's center, you need to know the life of the pump for your car and to change it in time before the breakage.

The radiation is stuck in the mud after winter, and the rest of the system is working. You need to go to the sink and ask for a radiator. It is highly desirable to extend it with compressed air to help remove the dirt from the hundreds of the heat sink.

It is not worth forgetting that only an experienced driver with the skills of an electro-electro and a car mechanic can perform any manipulation without fear of the consequences. If the car repair is alien, and the engine boilerplate, it is better to call the tow truck and go to the service, taking with it a stock of antifreeze of the right brand and colour.




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